Jacquemus' show through the wheatfields "L'Amour" is the name chosen for the SS21 collection of the brand

A gray sky of clouds at sunset, yet bright. An endless expanse of blond wheat trembling in the wind, furrowed by a 600-meter-long ondulated wooden platform. One hundred seats, each boxed between the ears as high as the guests. Finally, a nostalgic guitar music, to which is added a woman's voice and which, finally, turns into a light piano music: Une Barque sur L'Ocean by Ravel. Meanwhile, fifty-five looks, male and female, parade in front of the guests – they have mostly the colors of the earth, but there is no lack of black and white, the clothes reveal and bandage, the details play with the body shapes of the models: this is this L'Amour according to Jacquemus. For his SS21 collection, Simon Porte Jacquemus did not want to resort to digital, as so many others have done – especially since his brand organizes only two shows a year. Speaking to Vogue, the designer explained:

«For me, the runway can’t be a video. It’s at the heart of what we do; it’s not superficial. It’s important to all of us to continue, just like a restaurant that reopens. It’s like a movie of a summer day. It’s our life».

Between the fabrics with cut-outs in the shape of a heart, the transformation of everyday objects into small accessories and prints (such as the shirt that reproduces the bottom of a pool, the embroidered cherries and table cutlery transformed into small objects of leather goods) Jacquemus seems to have taken inspiration, for this season, from the style of Margiela – but without the experimental mind-bending of the Belgian and with all the romance, the candor and inventiveness of a child who is playing. With the added merit of being able to reinterpret according to their own canons, and perhaps better than many others, the feeling of post-lockdown life:

«What’s so beautiful about L’Amour is how it can endure—sometimes even grow stronger—in the absence of people being together».

Backstage photo credits:  Écoute Chérie for Vogue