Jacquemus' romantic over-the-pond walzer Parisian intimacy flirted with American effervescence and that's how the FW25 collection was born

«Let me keep him a little longer, time to adore, to say it, time to create memories,» sang Edith Piaf in 1960 in the song Mon Dieu. In 2025, as the 41 looks of the FW25 collection by Jacquemus parade and immediately disappear in a slow and romantic waltz, that’s exactly what our hearts sing as well. Let us keep them a little longer, or at least give us time to admire every detail of each outfit crafted by Simon Porte Jacquemus, each more poetic, airy, and sumptuous than the last. Yesterday, the young designer proved that it’s not necessary to take a hundred guests to an endless lavender field or under the Capri sun to win them over—an intimate atmosphere buzzing with chatter in an Art Deco Parisian apartment is more than enough. «With this collection, I wanted to bare myself before you, without artifice, just our silhouettes in the intimacy of the Auguste Perret apartment,» so was the announcement of the provençal designer on his Instagram account a few hours before the collection’s presentation. And so was the essence of this fashion show, from the very first steps of the models on the floor of the 16th arrondissement flat to the designer's greetings 40 looks later. 

While Jacquemus has accustomed us to a certain typology of shapes and colors, linen fabrics, and an aesthetic recognizable among all, it can be said that his FW25 collection is gradually moving away from ready-to-wear and inching closer to couture. Yet, this approach of Jacquemus towards a perhaps more mature and measured fashion is not a complete change of direction but rather an affirmation of his ideas and DNA as a whole. While elements reminiscent of the style of designers like Azzedine Alaïa or Daniel Roseberry for Schiaparelli can be found, this FW25 collection, with its building blocks, circles, triangles, stripes, and polka dots, is quintessentially Jacquemus. After the recent opening of his New York and London boutiques, this collection reflects Jacquemus’s continued expansion, proving that while he masters and embodies the made-in-France aesthetic and his beloved South like no one else, he doesn’t need to limit himself to it to deliver a high-quality collection.