Every recession indicator we got from the FW25 season Fashion is really a mirror of the global economy

There are historical moments when—seeking escapism from the harsh reality around us—focusing on the arts is the only way to find a glimmer of light in an otherwise bleak landscape. With an ongoing economic war, European leaders preparing for military actions, and various conflicts around the world, 2025 is one of these moments—or at least, it should be. But what happens when even fashion increasingly references the current economic recession, ignoring any hope of escape from reality, a desire that has been widespread for several seasons now? With the conclusion of the fashion month dedicated to the FW25 season last night, clear “recession indicators” have emerged, driven—willingly or not—by the influence of a disastrous global scenario. We already saw it during NYFW when designers like Willy Chavarria and Patricio Campillo used their platform to merge politics and fashion, with protest T-shirts voicing dissent against the current U.S. government. Even the intimate settings of the last Paris Fashion Week’s shows, which some interpret as exclusivity, signal a bigger issue: cost-cutting. Once again, luxury has not been immune to the severe problems of the global economy, proving that fashion is a precise reflection of the world around it. In support of this, some of the trends of the past six weeks of FW25 (both menswear and womenswear) explicitly or subtly hint at recession indicators.

Hemline Theory

Perhaps the biggest trend in FW25 womenswear was the subversive use of lingerie as a key part of outfits. More broadly, lace made a strong comeback, heavily featured in the second half of Dolce & Gabbana’s womenswear show and even in Maria Grazia Chiuri’s structured Dior, where she seemed to offer a more sensual take on the woman we’ve grown accustomed to over the past nine years. Gucci, still lacking a defined creative direction, incorporated lace bodysuits as tops, once again paired with pencil skirts. Miu Miu and Givenchy, albeit in different ways, focused on corsetry, bringing back the cone bra silhouette. Among independent designers, Collina Strada played with babydoll dresses and sheer lace garments with carefully placed transparency. The resurgence of lingerie as outerwear on the runway serves as a reminder that sometimes, a garment doesn’t have to be worn in just one way—it can adapt to different occasions depending on how it’s styled. In short, one purchase, endless uses.