What does the use of the tablecloth suggest about the future of fine dining? Its scarce presence indicates a new way of experiencing restaurants, with some exceptions
An accessory that has been seen less and less in restaurants over the years is the tablecloth. Its decline has coincided with the rise of a new idea of conviviality, highlighting how, in recent decades, not only the restaurant industry has changed profoundly, but also the reasons why people dine out and how menus are designed. Many mid-to-high-end establishments have gradually embraced a deliberately more informal and contemporary identity, favoring a relaxed atmosphere while still paying attention to detail. Leading the way in this shift was Noma in Copenhagen, and more generally, the influence of Scandinavian cuisine. As part of this renewal process, one of the traditional elements that has been progressively eliminated is precisely the tablecloth. More and more restaurants are opting to leave tables "bare", emphasizing the materiality of their surfaces. This decision is not only an aesthetic choice but also reflects an evolution in the concept of the dining experience, aiming for a balance between elegance and spontaneity. This trend is driven not only by cost-saving and practical considerations but also by a new way of conceiving fine dining, which in recent years has been striving to become more accessible and democratic, normalizing fine dining and fostering a sense of community with customers.
Today, in fact, as chef Tommaso Melilli wrote in his book Cucina Aperta, for more and more people, going to a certain type of restaurant is somewhat like going to the theater. Fine dining has become, in short, a form of entertainment. Not surprisingly, the counter has been rediscovered, where customers typically sit not for socializing but to be entertained: from there, they can observe how the kitchen operates, how dishes are plated, and the ingredients used. Thanks to the popularity of television programs such as Masterchef, as well as numerous cooking videos on social media, more and more people are fascinated by the preparation of complex dishes. In this sense, going to a fine dining restaurant becomes, above all, an opportunity to witness live what they regularly consume through social media feeds.
Will tablecloths come back in style?
For all these reasons, luxury restaurants have gradually moved away from formal trends – including the use of tablecloths – that dominated for years. However, there are exceptions. For example, in an interview with nss magazine, chef Laura Santosuosso did not hide the fact that using tablecloths in her restaurant Sandì – one of the most interesting new spots in Milan – represents, in some ways, a statement: «We envisioned a somewhat “old-school” restaurant, with tablecloths, no double seating shifts, and no push for sharing dishes: a bistro where one can sit comfortably and carve out a moment of leisure». According to an article in Marie Claire, it also seems that in New York, more and more restaurants are rediscovering the use of tablecloths: «[Chef] Tim Meyers, owner of Field Guide, has decided to reintroduce white tablecloths to signal to customers a special dining experience and a more welcoming atmosphere, and the same is happening in other high-profile [New York] establishments such as Jupiter, Torrisi, Bridges, Brass, and Borgo».
Despite tablecloths being less common than in the past, it should be noted that some studies suggest that customers perceive food served on a tablecloth as of higher quality and would therefore be willing to pay more. It is therefore not entirely out of the question that tablecloths could make a comeback in the future. In an ever-evolving gastronomic landscape, this accessory could reclaim its place in high-end restaurant dining rooms, not only for aesthetic or traditional reasons but also for the symbolic value it carries. This is what happened, for example, at the Bologna restaurant Calmo, opened by Lorenzo Costa and now incorporated into the bistro and bakery Allegra. The venue offered a deliberately “nostalgic” aesthetic, as reported by CiboToday, through a cuisine that did not want to «crystallize in regional tradition but look at all the classics of national cuisine». While informality and practicality remain priorities for many contemporary restaurants, the pursuit of a more refined and distinctive experience could lead more and more restaurateurs to reconsider tablecloths as an element to express a clear stance, between innovation and memory.
