MM6 Maison Margiela pays tribute to Miles Davis for FW25 The brand unveiled the new collection at Pitti Uomo 107

Yesterday, MM6 Maison Margiela left the cloudy ambiance of Paris and stepped onto the Florentine scene to present its FW25 collection during the 107th edition of Pitti Uomo. Under the glass roof of the Giardino dell’Orticoltura greenhouse, the French house unveiled a collection true to its identity, showcasing its mastery of deconstruction to rebuild anew. The collection celebrated a singular vision of fashion, driven by innovative approaches and a fascination with otherness, often bordering on the strange. From the moment the first models entered this mystical atmosphere under the starlit sky visible through the glass enclosure, the theme of the FW25 became unmistakably clear: duality, the seen and the hidden. Featuring pieces ranging from Matrix-style leather jackets to polka-dot ensembles finished with delicate scarves, the collection boldly broke the boundaries separating opposites. Androgyny reigned, as did chiaroscuro. Black and its wide spectrum of shades and moods contrasted sharply with turquoise lurex, while the materials embodied the house's very essence through a range of avant-garde and technical concepts, such as plastified knits, rubberised textures, and faded denim.

Returning to Pitti Uomo after a 19-year absence, the FW25 collection seems to pay tribute not only to the musician but also to the performance-driven show Maison Margiela staged during the 2006 event in Florence, where the collection consisted entirely of all-white looks. «Coming to Pitti Uomo gave us the opportunity to reflect on our menswear offering through a collection created specifically for this event. It’s a contemporary wardrobe that reflects the attitude, concepts, and creative processes of MM6. Our pieces are designed to emphasize the identity of the people who wear them. Here, we really wanted to talk about menswear. While remaining highly wearable, these garments express an idea of grandeur and extravagance. We thought about how to create strong, surprising clothing meant to amaze, working on textures, which are a fundamental element for men,» explained one of the designers from the MM6 creative team. After last night’s nocturnal showcase, MM6 will return to Milan next February with its women's collection, which will include a few menswear looks. If femininity managed to infiltrate the glass walls of the Giardino dell’Orticoltura last night, there’s no reason to deny masculinity a place in the next women’s collection.