The lone stars of Daniel Roseberry's FW25 for Schiaparelli When contradiction becomes synonymous with clarity

Initially trapped in corsets, then in stereotypes and diktats, women and their ways of dressing have been, since the dawn of time, defined, dominated, even controlled by men, their ideas, and their expectations. In a fashion industry where the primary target is women, but where the top masters and board members are mostly male, there are, however, creators like Daniel Roseberry, who wanted to set the record straight with his FW25 collection for Schiaparelli. In the same vein as some of his late haute couture colleagues, such as Cristobal Balenciaga or Azzedine Alaïa, Roseberry decided this time more than ever to honor women, their bodies, their desire to show it or not, and their will to feel good in what they wear. "I wanted to create a wardrobe that expresses the contradictions inherent in the lives of women: how to create something that, while reworking male archetypes, allows them to express the purest and most divine femininity?" he explains in a statement. And indeed, through a palette of warm and comforting colors, silhouettes that are all more feminine than the next yet strong at the same time, and constantly opposing textures, the Schiaparelli woman, through this FW25, is divine.

The fil rouge of the collection, beyond the trompe-l'œil, illusions, and innocent tricks, is the equestrian and cowboy world, in tribute to Roseberry's childhood under the scorching Texas sun. A tribute made through key pieces typical of ranches, such as the duster-coat, the curved-leg jeans, the Red Wing cowboy boot, and the iconic oversized buckle of the western belt (here decorated with the Maison's distinctive symbols: the lock and the lobster). But beyond this tribute to his roots and the fashion that saw him grow up, Daniel Roseberry also used this runway to transmit a powerful message of authenticity, uniqueness, and exclusivity. "In this post-social media era, where many of us are tired and disgusted by the idea of living through a screen, we ask ourselves what really gives meaning to life. Meaning comes from recognizing what is still precious in life: things and people that cannot be reproduced. Those that must be lived in person, in the real world." explains the designer. "In recent months, I've spoken less and listened more. I wanted to create something that would be a source of inspiration and could never be copied by fast fashion, he continues. Women in my life are lone stars - there are no others like them, and there never will be. I hope they, and all women, feel the same way about these clothes." A message that only makes us want to take out the most unique, extravagant, even shameful piece from our wardrobe and wear it with pride, embrace this idea of the solitary star, own it, and shine without restraint, without fear of blinding the other stars that have yet to reveal themselves.