Best of Milano Fashion Week FW25 Women’s We hadn't seen a week like this in quite some time

Milan is back, stronger than ever. The creative directors' turmoil hasn't dented the Italian Fashion Week in the slightest. In fact, it almost seems as if the chaos at the beginning of the year has fueled the unstoppable energy permeating the streets of the Lombard capital. From Fendi's grand centennial celebration to the debut of Chinese designer Susan Fang, this year's MFW calendar has never been so diverse and relevant, striking a perfect balance between historic Maisons and emerging designers. Debuts were not lacking either, such as David Koma for Blumarine, who managed to restore a clear creative direction to the brand after a couple of chaotic years. Among the biggest surprises were also the shows of emerging designers, like the visionary runway by Giuseppe di Morabito, which perfectly embraced the theme of the upcoming Design Week: connecting art with new forms of artificial intelligence. The innovations did not stop at the runways but continued with presentations and new openings, most notably the new flagship store of Miss Sixty, which houses the first permanent sculpture in Italy by Japanese artist Hajime Sorayama. However, the week did not start in the best way: the FW25 collection seemed somewhat lackluster during the Menswear shows in January, and the opening show was that of a Gucci recently left without a creative director. Despite this, Womenswear continued to deliver shows and presentations that left a mark on the Italian fashion scene. Here are some of the best shows of this MFW.

Dolce&Gabbana

When Simone Bellotti was appointed creative director of Bally in 2023, his first collections did not generate much reaction. No missteps, but neither a true spark. That was until last Saturday when the Swiss brand presented its FW25 collection on the sixteenth floor of the Torre Velasca, an homage to its Swiss heritage. The collection explores the idea of routine: the order and repetition that structure our daily lives but eventually make us crave disruption, as stated by the brand. It is precisely between discipline and instinct that Bellotti moves, alternating sartorial precision with unexpected details. The womenswear introduced exaggerated cinched-waist silhouettes, with suits creating a 1950s hourglass effect, almost sculpturally emphasizing the hips. However, it was the belts that stole the show: tight, multiple, sometimes exaggerated, serving as both an element of constraint and a symbol of power. Stiff leather versions cinched blazers, while corset-belts with metal buckles adorned trench coats and leather dresses. In menswear, rigidity softened: leather became a disruptive element within tailored suits, while coats and jackets overlapped lightly. Between rigor and freedom, Bally’s FW25 collection marks Bellotti’s true affirmation, presenting a collection that does not merely honor the brand’s heritage but redefines it with a bolder and more contemporary vision.