Welcome back, Burberry New CEO, new vibe, new love for Daniel Lee

The Burberry show that closed the London Fashion Week yesterday (which generally saw a return to form for the English scene) was a demonstration of how a change of CEO can influence a brand's aesthetic and the work of its creative director. Since his arrival last July, Joshua Schulman has imposed on the major British brand a sharp and timely change of direction: out with misplaced modernisms and nightlife temptations, out with streetwear and avant-garde inclinations, and in with Burberry's tradition. The English brand, founded in 1856 and known for its trench coats and scarves, has over time expanded its heritage into the vast world of British outerwear and knitwear, where its true wealth lies – so why push it into territories that don’t suit it? Last night, this renewed sense of tradition culminated in a course correction that, through more “sincere” and less glam campaigns and a renewed focus on Burberry’s true strong categories, finally allowed Daniel Lee's talent to shine. The collection presented yesterday was finally in line with Burberry’s identity, carrying a distinct and familiar flavor of Christopher Bailey's style (his FW08 menswear collection still remains a benchmark of excellence for the brand), but with updates and silhouettes that not only made Lee’s signature recognizable but also prevented this alignment with the brand’s golden era from sounding repetitive. In other words, Burberry is back.

Armigers aside, Lee’s style—with his large structured lapels, layered collars, and delightful sense of fabric texture—finally shone as it should, certainly better directed by a CEO who knows where to place his bets. He also introduced subtle styling and design touches that were particularly interesting: many looks, for example, featured shirt collars visible beneath coats, designed with a more rectangular shape and a contrasting outline, cut in a silk reminiscent of pajamas; and there was even a leather belt worn on the outside to fasten both a coat and an oversized scarf. As a final thought beyond the show itself, considering this collection, we hope the rumor of Daniel Lee moving to Jil Sander is false—it took the designer two years to find the right tone for Burberry, and now that he has, his departure would be a shame. But to know what will happen, we simply have to wait. In the meantime, let’s enjoy this moment of renewed hope for the beloved British brand.