The most beautiful presentations of Milan Fashion Week FW25 Men’s Perhaps more intimate, but no less spectacular

The main advantage of a relatively light men's calendar during this Milan Fashion Week was that many fashion insiders who arrived in the city during the past few days were able to enjoy the many presentations with more ease, as they truly represent the strongest fabric of the Milanese calendar. While shows are spectacular moments, filled with celebrities, that become media events, presentations allow for a closer look at the clothes and collections, and above all, the chance to “meet” the brand up close through its designers, PR representatives, and staff. Needless to say, younger and disruptive realities are often found here.

This year, the presentation calendar was populated both by historic brands, who opted for formats different from the usual shows, and by new voices in Milanese design, whose scene is continuously enriched with more authoritative figures season after season. Precisely because presentations are becoming a platform where, more and more, old and new generations of Milanese fashion meet, we wanted to tell you about the best ones.

GR10K

GR10K presented its FW25 collection at a school, entitled "Der Blaue Reiter", as a reflection on the connection between functional clothing and artistic creativity. Inspired by the expressionist collective of Kandinsky and others, the collection combines 20th-century coats and automotive pieces with punk graphics and dark aesthetic sweatshirts, reinterpreting the idea of workwear. With childish colors and jarring cultural references, the garments become a critique of marketing codes and contemporary superficiality. During the presentation, entitled "Strydent Syntax", a classical singer group performed with dissonant and metallic voices in a room filled with stacked blue chairs— a perfect continuation of the previous performance, which focused on classical music, reflecting the intellectual soul of the brand. With the new range of garments, however, GR10K offered a wardrobe that rejects intellectualism and technology, focusing on simplicity, authenticity, and irony, in line with its ethos of pragmatic and provocative design.

Federico Cina

"Assunta e Giacomo" is a collection that explores nostalgia and memory through the everyday clothing of Federico's recently deceased grandparents. Household garments and intimate wear, work clothes, and special occasion outfits become symbols of memory that come to life through the artistic performance with which the collection was presented. This performance, hosted by the Sozzani Foundation, represents daily routines and family rituals, where every simple gesture becomes an act full of emotion. The set, inspired by the grandparents' house, transformed into an abstract and evocative space that focused on specific memories, like a poetic still frame, a loop of details where the same gestures were repeated, magnified. The collection celebrated the continuity of affection and the bond that defies time, bringing memory to life in small daily gestures. The performance, therefore, became a tribute to memory and a bridge between past and present.

MSGM

The MSGM Men’s FW25 collection, titled "Follow the Rabbit," invites us to embark on a transformative journey that blends playfulness with introspection. The recurring symbol of the rabbit represents change, guiding us toward parallel worlds where innocence and complexity intertwine. Inspired by cinematic and literary references such as Donnie Darko, Gummo, and Alice’s White Rabbit, the collection explores rebellion, social decay, and duality, combining tailored craftsmanship with psychedelic and punk influences. Ironic graphics, refined textures, and artisanal details merge with the provocative aesthetic of photographer Bruce LaBruce, offering an immersive experience. Through this journey between reality and imagination, MSGM celebrates individuality and a renewed perception of the self.

C.P. Company

Marking a new step in its heritage, the C.P. Company’s FW25 collection underlines the brand’s commitment to continuous textile innovation and refined design. Adopting a smart-casual aesthetic with loose shapes, it introduces contemporary silhouettes in neutral tones, embellished with meticulous details. Outerwear takes centre stage in FW25 with the introduction of three fabrics: Twill, Opal and C.P. Duffel, alongside the classic Gore G-Type, applied to iconic pieces of the Italian brand such as the Mille Jacket, Pea Coat and fish tail parka. A pillar of the brand, iconic overshirts are reinvented with refined pocket details and made in signature fabrics, while denim also plays a key role in the FW025 collection, with flagship pieces such as the reinvented PeaCoat, reflecting C.P. Company’s distinctive approach to this timeless fabric. 

Brioni

Brioni's FW25 collection, presented in the magnificent Palazzo Serbelloni with a surprising contemporary dance performance choreographed by Julie Bruyère, reaffirms the brand's timeless elegance through garments with clean lines, luxurious textures, and relaxed silhouettes. Between soft and versatile suits, tailored jackets, sophisticated knitwear, and practical outerwear, the collection combines craftsmanship precision and a laid-back attitude, highlighted by a warm and refined palette. A gold-embroidered jacket made in the same ateliers used by the Vatican vividly conveyed the idea of Roman opulence evoked by Norbert Stumpfl. Soft accessories and premium details complete a wardrobe that celebrates movement, balancing exuberance and sobriety for both men and women.

Stone Island

For the new season, Stone Island drew inspiration from Japan, where tradition and innovation coexist, creating a daily landscape full of contradictions. The collection included exclusive dyes like traditional indigo and experimental techniques such as "colour collision" and "reverse colour process." Among the novelties were t-shirts with corrosive prints, sashiko stitching, and a new version of the Ice Jacket. Additionally, the Raw Beauty capsule uses recycled fabric scraps, while GHOST introduces DAVID-TC, and MARINA evolves with a reflective silver badge. The range of accessories also included trekking shoes created with DIEMME and technical materials like CORDURA®, in a palette ranging from vibrant tones of acid green and plum to neutral shades and bright reds.

Our Legacy

Our Legacy's FW25 collection, 'AULA', explores changes in identity and transformation through clothing, emphasizing how environment and profession shape self-perception. The collection features contrasting looks for each individual, highlighting the tension between everyday anonymity and professional precision. Garments are reinterpreted, like sportswear transformed into structured uniforms and tuxedo shapes softened in textured fabrics. Inspired by tobacco shops, the color palette reflects earthy tones and the smell of smoke and leather. 'AULA' invites the wearer to explore alternative characters, navigating the fluid boundaries of identity.

Bally

For Milan Fashion Week Men's, Valextra celebrated its connection to tradition and innovation through a collection that reinterprets the art of luxury luggage. Iconic models like Boston, Babila, and Avietta were updated with metal details and optimized functionality, while the new bowling bag MyLogo and the Milano Large, both in Sublime leather, combine softness and design to meet modern needs. The expansion of the Valextra Assoluto line, with three new models in ECONYL® regenerated nylon, emphasizes the meeting of craftsmanship excellence and innovative materials. "The Fall/Winter 2025 Men's collection embodies the evolution of Made in Italy luxury," said Xavier Rougeaux, CEO of Valextra.

Jacob Cohen

Jacob Cohën's FW25 collection was inspired by the world of cinema, but the one far from the spotlight, focusing on the everyday lives of actors. Conceived by director Fabio Cherstich, it tells the story of discreet and sophisticated elegance, far from show business. The collection, dominated by denim and luxurious materials like cashmere and wool-silk, focused on wearable and everyday garments, like jackets, trench coats, and shirts, with detailed touches. The colors ranged from taupe and camel to denim blue, coffee, and black. The men's collection featured soft lines, while the women's collection played with modern silhouettes, such as low-waisted trench coats and cargo pants.

Fiorucci

A highly appreciated off-schedule event during Fashion Week, which wasn't a traditional presentation, gave Fiorucci the opportunity to tell its story in a new way. On January 16, Fiorucci's new cultural space in Milan, located at Via Lomazzo 19, was inaugurated with an exclusive exhibition by Australian artist Thomas Jeppe, curated by the Parisian collective The Community. This event marks the recovery of Fiorucci's historical heritage as a reference point for cultural innovation. Jeppe, known for his multidisciplinary practice, explores themes related to visual culture, social history, and global subcultures. The exhibition represents a part of Fiorucci's broader vision, which continues to promote creativity and experimentation.

Tod's

For the FW25 season, Tod's celebrated a timeless and understated style, emphasizing Italian craftsmanship and fine materials. The central project is "Pashmy", which introduces soft leathers inspired by the delicacy of pashmina, such as refined suede and ultra-light nappa leather, reinterpreting men's classics with a palette of natural tones and artisanal details. The key footwear is the Gommino, renewed in modern versions such as the City Gommino and Winter Gommino, available in styles like ankle boots and loafers. The collection is completed with the oversized Di Bag Folio and a multi-pocket trekking backpack in saddlery style.

Montblanc

Todd Snyder, Global Creative Director of Woolrich Black Label, draws inspiration from the volcanic and glacial landscapes of Northern Europe for the FW25 collection, reinterpreting technical outerwear and winter apparel with a contemporary approach, combining functionality, luxury, and elegance. Composed of 60 pieces, the collection celebrates the essence of unspoiled nature, reflected in key items like the oversized parka with a tie-dye print reminiscent of glaciers, the triple-layer waterproof wool field jacket, and the cargo jacket in water-repellent nylon adorned with a print evoking the icy surfaces of Nordic lakes. “I wanted to mix all the elements I love: streetwear, utility, military, heritage, and luxury. The result is a collection that answers the contemporary desire for garments that are both practical and uniquely stylish,” explained Todd Snyder. Born from collaboration with the finest Italian manufacturers and created with a minimalist and sophisticated color palette, the pieces presented by Snyder are both functional and refined, perfect for exploring nature as well as city streets with style.