David Koma's first collection for Blumarine inspired by the girls of Milan Georgian designer signs the new chapter of the legendary 1980s brand
Where to start in describing what Blumarine was and still is? A question that the new creative director, Georgian David Koma, must have asked himself when taking charge of the creativity of a unique and multifaceted Italian brand with more than forty years of history and a long series of eras and transformations. The Blumarine woman is romantic but not nostalgic; she possesses judgment and boldness in equal measure, is well-acquainted with transgression but even more so with her own femininity. In short, the challenge for David Koma was to dress a modern woman. And that’s why his first inspiration, beyond the brand’s already rich codes, came from the girls of Milan, from the style of the city itself when summing up the girls and women who inhabit its streets and bring them to life. The result, presented today with a lookbook for the Pre-Fall 2025 season, is unmistakable, highly wearable, yet also carries that avant-garde edge that has made David Koma one of the most intriguing names among the new generation of fashion talents. Despite the contemporary and highly product-oriented mood of the collection, David Koma’s new Blumarine retains the brand’s signature sense of playfulness.
Finally, the accessories reinterpret the brand’s DNA with an ironic and sophisticated touch. The Kiss Me bag, shaped like lips, is presented in a version made of cashmere-effect shearling, while a new crossbody bag inspired by the silhouette of a derrière is available in green cargo canvas, black leather, or washed-out black leather, with details like decorative charms or shearling finishes. An evening bag featuring the brand’s iconic B has been crafted in small or mini formats. Other accessories include rosary necklaces with cross pendants, pendants with the words ‘Woof’ and ‘Miao,’ and cat-eye jewelry. The animalier theme is also reflected in leopard-print stiletto-heeled boots made of pony hair and boudoir sandals adorned with shearling or feathers. Given the presence of pets both in the lookbook and among the collection’s inspirations, Koma has also created a series of collars, leashes with rose-shaped silver studs, and a wrist pouch for waste bags made of leather. Even from peripheral products like these, it’s fascinating to see how David Koma’s idea for Blumarine’s new identity emerged so well-structured and detailed right from the start—not without its own humor, which is absolutely imperative in today’s serious fashion world. A mood that will undoubtedly shine brightest in the brand’s next show, eagerly awaited by Milan and the fashion world at the upcoming women’s fashion week.