Beyond "The Debutante", the interview with Louis Shengtao Chen The Shanghai-based designer reflects on his fashion odyssey
In today's world of reality TV reunions, like The Bachelor or Love Island, fans eagerly anticipate catching up with their favorite personalities to relive the season’s highlights. But, have you ever wondered if debutantes of yesteryear could have capitalized on this trend, too? Enter Louis Shengtao Chen—fashion’s very own debutante phenomenon. Making his grand entrance at the 2021 Shanghai Fashion Week with his collection aptly titled The Debutante, Chen took the stage by storm. His collection fused the elegance of traditional French tailoring and ball gown inspirations with modern, unconventional materials like sealing tapes, vintage ties, and mechanical components. It was a bold reimagination of what a debutante could be in the 21st century—strong, unapologetic, and wholly modern (aka the cultured baddie). Fast forward three years, and Chen has continued to redefine fashion, pushing boundaries with his innovative designs. For Spring/Summer 2025, he introduced his latest collection, Echos in the Fog, a poetic portrayal of a woman navigating the paradox of beauty and confinement. Chen’s designs reflect this duality: soft, fragile silhouettes juxtaposed with dramatic waistlines and bold, textured fabrics. The collection highlights his signature blend of naiveté and adulthood—lace peeks out from denim pencil skirts, organza gowns overlay argyle patterns, and floral-inspired hoods bring an air of fantasy.
Can you share a bit about your creative process? How do you bring your ideas to life?
It's really about millions of endless fittings. We fit, style, and fit again, and no matter how many shows we prepare for, the fitting process is truly magnificent. Each time, the clothing takes on a new life with every woman who wears it. The pieces don’t need extra styling—they naturally adapt to each individual, speaking for themselves. I love that about fittings. Beyond that, I sketch a lot. Every day, I draw each piece, from clothing to shoes, accessories, and bags. Sketching brings the designs to life, translating them from two-dimensional ideas into three-dimensional realities. It’s a very tangible and vivid transformation. Of course, I care deeply about how our collections are presented—who wears the pieces, how they move, and how the shows bring the clothes to life. It all starts with an image in my mind, and from there, it evolves through sketches and fittings into something real.
Who is the Louis Shengtao Chen-universe woman?
The typical client within the Louis Shengtao Chen universe is not easily defined by a single name or image. They are here, present in the essence of our designs. Once, I might have referenced icons like Ni Ni or Faye Wong, but now I see our clients standing before us, embodying resilience and belief in themselves. These women are sophisticated yet fluid, navigating life with emotional depth and passion for fashion. They embrace their interests and hobbies with energy and enthusiasm, reflecting a vibrant spirit. Our brand is not bland or cold; it is infused with emotion, resonating with those who, like me, appreciate the beauty in both clothing and life itself.
You’ve been shortlisted for the LVMH Prize, recently won the Vogue China Fashion Fund 2024, and recognized by Fashion Asia amongst other accolades. How does it feel to be regarded as a rising star in the industry?
In truth, it's not just the time after getting recognized with awards, every day in this industry is hard work. The challenges are constant, and we push ourselves to work even harder. As I grow, I realize the importance of precision—whether in design, vision, or the language we use to express it.
What’s next for Louis Shengtao Chen? Any upcoming projects we should know about?
What's next for me is a very personal and reflective project, one I’ve been working on quietly for some time. It feels like a return to my roots—self-exploratory and self-analytical, something many designers experience, but I haven't truly embraced in three or four years. This journey has been deeply tied to my student days, bringing back that sense of wonder and excitement I once had about the future, about waking up each day inspired by what I might create next. I wouldn’t call it the best or most proud project I’ve ever done, but it’s a beautiful feeling—a kind of self-meditation, preparing myself for what’s to come. It’s been a grounding experience, like placing crystal heels beside my bed—a small, personal ritual that reflects this moment of clarity and calm.
