Morphology of mannequins On why they change and what they say about us

Mannequins are a constant in the history of fashion, an element that, like trends, is in continuous evolution. If the clothes we wear represent us, the fashion we aspire to embodies our ideals. Not just political or philosophical (like rejecting fast fashion or embracing minimalism, for instance), but also physical: clothing is a means of expression, the body its canvas. What we see on the runway is nothing more than the final sedimentation of all the socio-political events that preceded it. For example, after World War II, shop mannequins became thinner due to the crisis and two centimetres shorter, while in the '80s, they started sporting abs. Faced with a world torn apart by wars and late-stage capitalism, fashion responds to public uncertainty by offering a false sense of security through ready-to-use aesthetics that tap into nostalgia, such as Cottagecore, Dark Academia, and Indie Sleaze. Even mannequins have fallen victim to this simplification: with the rise of quiet luxury, collections oversaturated with accessories, and straightforward product designs (making them easier to sell), mannequins are becoming indistinguishable, sometimes disappearing from shop windows altogether, replaced by minimalist hangers or art installations. So, don't blame a brand for using mannequins that are too thin—they're merely a sign of the times we're living in.

«I wouldn’t rule out a future where shop windows become LED screens with fake 3D projections, holograms, and who knows what else,» says Tafel, convinced that while mannequins are getting slimmer, they will never disappear. «It’s often more practical to hang clothes on racks or fold them for customers to touch or try on, but sometimes, with smaller collections, having a mannequin adds dynamism; it all depends on the brand’s strength,» she adds. A glimpse into the future of mannequins comes from Zalando, the e-commerce platform that recently launched virtual fitting rooms, where shoppers can view clothes on a mannequin with their exact measurements. Given the buzz around this new technology—spurred by a Zalando survey showing that fitting rooms cause anxiety and frustration—we might soon see mannequins in boutiques with our precise size. Only then, after years of diets consisting of quiet luxury and other prepackaged aesthetics, mannequins will finally have something tasteful on their plate: our personal style.