The casual surrealism of Schiaparelli SS25 When ready-to-wear gets the haute couture treatment

While the rain pours down on the French capital, the world’s fashion hub for this week, the sky suddenly cleared yesterday around 7 pm as guests of the SS25 Schiaparelli show arrived one by one at Place Vendôme. Just steps away from the Ritz, an iconic fashion landmark where Coco Chanel spent much of her life and career, one of the most anticipated shows of the week came to life. The show, led by Daniel Roseberry, Schiaparelli’s creative director since 2019, spotlighted a central theme of fashion: women. In this tribute to the women who make his life and art more beautiful, the designer presented a casual tone accented with surrealism, offering a daily uniform for strong, independent women who need nothing more than jeans and a corset to instantly transform into fashion icons. There was no singular theme or narrative, aside from women, celebration, and freedom of expression, every day and in all situations.

And it’s precisely this mix of materials, styles, and colors in the collection that could pose a problem. While the emphasis on freedom and Roseberry’s unfettered creativity is commendable, the lack of a cohesive theme or continuity in the collection could be seen as a downside. The transition from oversized jackets that seem to swallow the models to outfits suited for a vacation in Saint-Tropez, and then back to a chic, even somewhat haughty aesthetic, felt disjointed. It seemed as though the models were all heading to different events, which may not necessarily be a good thing. However, the attention to the smallest details, the quality, and Roseberry's ability to transform everything he touches into haute couture elements should be applauded, as should the recognition of the women without whom none of this would be possible—from the client to the seamstress, the artisan, and the technician.