Yuima Nakazato and Spiber turn biology into Haute Couture The Japanese designer's collection combines opera with lab-grown protein fibers

The Unveil collection, presented at the recent Paris Couture Week by Japanese designer Yuima Nakazato, transforms natural fibers into exquisite garments by blending cutting-edge technologies with old-fashioned principles. In collaboration with leading biomaterials company Spiber, the designer developed the collection using fibers made from Brewed Protein™ materials produced through a microbial fermentation process. The resulting fabric has its own unique, luxuriously soft touch—physical proof of biotechnology’s ability to generate sustainable alternatives to the resource-intensive production processes of traditional materials. It took more than fifteen years of research and development to bring Spiber's Brewed Protein™ materials to commercial production, but with presentations of collections like YUIMA NAKAZATO as well as previous collaborators such as A Cold Wall, Yohji Yamamoto brands, Junya Watanabe, sacai, Woolrich, The North Face and more, the company is emerging in the fashion world as a biomaterial industry leader.

Nakazato also sought to pay homage to the Japanese tailoring tradition while focusing his attention on every detail of the collection. «Traditional techniques are disappearing because the landscape has changed, but to create something beautiful it is always important to combine technology with craftsmanship,» says the designer. Against a dark background, characterized by large round mirrors illuminated with red lights, the looks of Unveil immersed the audience in a scene from Idomeneo, projected into the twenty-first century. The delicate yet shimmering red knitwear, made from Brewed Protein™ fibers and wool, brought to life weaves reminiscent of the opera's set design, while the jewellery referred to the marine motifs of Crete and the capes accentuated the theatricality of the collection. To make the image of Idomeneo his own, Nakazato transformed the opera's armor into delicate Japanese ceramics that functioned not only as accessories but also as musical instruments. Stripped of their purpose, Nakazato's armors become a paradox: shields that, instead of protecting, amplify the wearer's vulnerabilities. Like the accident that turned Spiber's Brewed Protein™ materials into Nakazato's most important discovery, Unveil has a happy ending.