How the 5 fashion season debuts went The results are mixed, the enthusiasm is high

One of the unspoken rules of fashion journalism is to always suspend judgment on debut collections. We're not just talking about the collections of rookie designers, but also those of new creative directors at established brands. When a new creative director takes over a brand, they often have very little time to put together a collection – in some cases, just a few months or even less. For example, Alessandro Michele's debut at Gucci remains historic, providing a general idea of the brand's new direction but was much more sparse compared to what would follow. Additionally, many debut collections are like casting a wide net in the water, to carefully gauge which looks and styles resonate best with the audience and adjust course for the next season.

So, we must weigh the five debut collections seen in recent weeks with some detachment, without leaning too heavily in one direction – time, like a good judge, will confirm or overturn the verdict.

1. Tod’s

After a series of vaguely sepulchral debuts, Chemena Kamali arrived on the runway like a fresh, fragrant breeze. Of course, Chloé's debut collection could certainly have been more balanced; some looks were overloaded with ideas that could have been streamlined more succinctly, but Kamali confidently understood what constituted the freshness and vivacity of the brand. It's immediately apparent that her hand leads with a certainty that makes us breathe a sigh of relief: nothing in this collection is approximate, nothing feels outdated or stale. The future seems bright.