A new documentary explores John Galliano's life A closer look at the career of the enigmatic designer

Born Juan Carlos Antonio Galliano-Guillén, John Galliano embodies the most exciting era in fashion history. This enigmatic designer, once dubbed the industry's "enfant terrible", started out as a student in London at Central Saint Martins. His first collection, inspired by the French Revolution, became emblematic, carrying with it the legacy of the deconstruction movement. The Les Incroyables collection attracted attention from all sides of the industry, but rather than partnering with established maisons, Galliano took the bold step of founding his own label. He created pieces that were both avant-garde and historic, quickly establishing a reputation among the British fashion elite. Despite critical acclaim, Galliano's brand lacked financial backing and his designs, while innovative and inspired, were not suitable for everyday use. Bankruptcy loomed, but the intervention of Anna Wintour and Andre Leon Talley changed the trajectory of Galliano's brand. Two great admirers of Galliano's creations, they negotiated financing for the designer and helped him to set up in Paris.

The designer is currently the subject of a documentary by Kevin Macdonald: High & Low - John Galliano. In the age of cancel culture, of which Galliano's story is perhaps one of the earliest examples, the director explores notions of forgiveness, redemption and atonement with the designer. According to the director, when asked why he agreed to take part in the film, the designer explained: «I'm not making the film because I want to be forgiven. I'm making the film to be understood a little better». So we see that the designer is not so much concerned with the optics or repetition of the events that led to his dismissal, but rather seeks to lift the mysterious cloud that protected him, while subjecting it to scrutiny. He says: «I now understand that I had no choice but to follow this path and stumble. It was a message sent by God. We are like children, we need to fall to learn.»