
Betsy Johnson’s PRODUCTS: Shoulder Pads, Princess Diana, and the Power of Insider Change «Reverse psychology in the process.»
In the heart of Paris, British designer Betsy Johnson welcomed us into her showroom, which also serves as an intimate creative space for herself and her team. There, among the striking pieces of her new collection, we delved deep into the inspirations behind her brand, PRODUCTS, and the powerful messages she hopes to convey. As we entered, our attention was immediately drawn to a model, comfortably lounging on a latex-covered couch, wearing a tight black dress with a deep neckline, paired with an aristocratic hat, both emblazoned with the words 'STAY COMMERCIAL' in white. Her hands were tucked into an innovative handwarmer-phone-holder combination, the phone was sticking out with the flashlight on, which always gave it the effect that you were being recorded and essentially flipped the narrative. Conversing with Betsy Johnson means uncovering the story behind an elusive and enigmatic figure. Although she appears very reserved on social media, Betsy is a lively, energetic, and complex person. She was dressed in a pair of oversized Balenciaga track pants, visibly distressed at the back from the way her stiletto heels punctuate them with every step, in a sort of statement of nonchalance. Her hair was slicked back, half blonde and half black, almost symbolizing the division between nonconformity and the desire to be seen, an internal struggle that often emerges in her creations. Looking at the collection, sculpted shoulders stood out on many outfits. It felt natural to ask: 'Why the shoulder pads?'
Betsy then asked us if we would like her model to change outfits to get a better sense of the pieces. She showed us an all-black outfit - a color that, along with its white and red counterparts, strongly resonates throughout the collection: tights with a central pleat fastened into stilettos with a 'SALE'-branded strap, a squared-shoulder suit top cut a little below the bust to reveal a corset fastened with a belt whose metal buckle once again spells 'SALE'. The filaments from the distressing hang loosely, giving it an almost studied yet disheveled look. As Betsy pranced around the model, adjusting some elements and adding the final touches, she revealed the deeper meaning of her collection. Born into a working-class family and witnessing her brother's struggles after leaving the army, Betsy challenges the industry's occasional fetishization of working-class and military culture. She aims to flip the script, ingeniously appropriating symbols of wealth and aristocracy in her designs—a tactic she brilliantly terms as 'reverse psychology in the process.' As our conversation reached its conclusion, Betsy shared her belief in the transformative power of internal struggle. Recalling her past activism, she said: «I used to wake up at 5 A.M. to camp outside slaughterhouses and protest every weekend just to realize nothing changed.' Today, her approach is nuanced: believing in the potency of working alongside power structures, she sees the merit in «playing the game' to bring about profound change from within.»