The history of Cargo-mania From the trenches to the catwalk

Rarely does a piece of clothing manage to bridge the gap between luxury and streetwear like cargo pants. This fundamental archetype of menswear, born at the dawn of World War II, has transcended epochs, national borders, and generations, as well as various subcultures, to become, today, perhaps the only wardrobe item that enjoys a sort of universal consensus worldwide. From the highest luxury to the cheapest, low-quality products from brands like Shein, cargo pants, with appropriate modifications, cut across every imaginable market category. And in this season, cargo pants surprised many by appearing on the Saint Laurent runway, thanks to a perfect storm of love for oversized pants, the utility trend, and quiet luxury. The status of cargo pants in the fashion world has changed many times in nearly a century since their first appearance, not on the runway but in British barracks in the late 1930s.

From the field of fire to the streets

The definitive leap occurred in 2002 when Nicholas Ghesquiere turned cargo pants into the foundation for many looks in Balenciaga's SS02 collection, definitively detaching them from the streetwear and sportswear world and making them a new archetype of luxury – although we can assume they were already widely popular. The following year, it was Jean Paul Gaultier and then Dolce & Gabbana's turn to popularize cargo pants with their SS03 collection, which has now become iconic. 

2003 was one of the most important years for cargo sales, unanimously described as the best-selling item of the spring season, alongside micro-skirts. However, by December, the trend seemed saturated. Nevertheless, the model never truly disappeared from fashion. American mall brands like Abercrombie & Fitch had made them so popular that it was impossible for fashion designers to avoid creating luxury versions of them. Moreover, cargo pants remained a cornerstone of streetwear aesthetics, becoming more refined over time and today being the most popular style for the Gen Z.

Recently, the SS24 collections seen in America and major European fashion capitals were filled with cargo pants, stripped of their military essence and transformed into not only functional items but also excellent opportunities to explore the beauty of cuts and draping. The most striking case was certainly Saint Laurent, whose latest collection paid tribute to the safari jacket (and its pockets) and specifically included cargo pants paired with ultra-tight transparent tops. In other cases, from Ferrari to Dries Van Noten, passing through Balenciaga, Junya Watanabe, Marine Serre, and especially The Attico, the classic cargo pants model has become a playground for imaginative pocket arrangements, reconfiguring fits (currently favoring the monumental), and unique pairings. Twenty years after their record-breaking year, cargo pants are more popular and thriving than ever – and we're ready to bet that their popularity won't fade anytime soon.