Change is in the air at Copenhagen Fashion Week SS24 Young designers at the forefront of Scandinavian fashion's transformation at an edition in the wind and rain

Maybe it's the nonstop wind or the impossible-to-predict weather, but there is definitely an air of change at Copenhagen Fashion Week. The four days of shows (one more than usual) highlighted what we have already seen in the last period: the Scandinavian minimalism so dear in those latitudes is slowly giving way to the new. A new one that has many names, some better known than others. After last season's debut, for example, P.L.N. reconfirmed itself as one of the most exciting realities of the Danish scene by veering, after an initial collection with commercial appeal, toward a show with more conceptual nuances that do not, however, betray the spirit of the brand (which in the meantime is collaborating with Travis Scott).

The presence of menswear on the catwalk is another of the central themes of this process of change in Danish fashion, which also thanks to brands such as Sunflower (protagonist of one of the best shows and most solid collections of Fashion Week) is discovering a passion for men's fashion that until now has remained dormant. A passion that when it is not manifested on the catwalk does so through new ways that focus on the value of community, whether it is through parties as in the case of (di)vision and Soulland, or pop-ups and special events, as with Heliot Emil, who returned to his hometown to inaugurate his new store that serves as the forerunner to a series of new openings. In short, something is changing at Copenhagen Fashion Week in a process that does not leave Ganni indifferent either. Bolstered by the presence of Paloma Elsesser at the opening of its show, the brand told a "grown-up" version of its Ganni Girl who, while keeping her more classic traits intact, is beginning to enter a new phase in her life. «Even the salespeople are changing,» a girl in one of the brand's stores tells me, «now you see a lot more tattooed guys working for Ganni than three years ago.» There is an air of newness in Denmark, and we can only be happy about it, ready to find out what direction tomorrow's Danish fashion will take.