From catwalk to Oscars From Lady Gaga in Verace to Florence Pugh in Valentino, all the deja-vu of the Academy Awards

Yesterday, on the most eagerly night in international cinema, the partnership between haute couture and Hollywood's celebrity Olympus was on the agenda. The red carpet par excellence (which on this occasion was surprisingly beige in colour) surrounded a flurry of haute couture unfortunately which some pretty clear patterns could be discerned. Not only the canonical distinction between dreamy dresses, like Tems' Lever Couture in a blaze of white tulle that blocked the view of all the unfortunates behind her in the audience, and the minimalism of those who prefer a more sober elegance, like Vanessa Hudgens in her vintage Chanel sheath dress, but also between past and present. If the iconic white off-shoulder dress worn by Rooney Mara came straight from the archives of Alexander Mcqueen, more precisely from the FW08 show which made the history of the fashion house, many garments were instead direct quotes from the fashion weeks that had just ended between Milan and Paris, complete looks from the catwalk to the red carpet without much styling effort and yet with spectacular results in some cases.

Julia Garner chose the same wild outfit as Naomi Campbell for Off-White FW23, Cara Delevigne's romantic off-the-shoulder dress in two-tone tulle was Del Core SS23, Yara Shadidi in a fiery red dress and gloves with appliquéd floral inserts was Bottega Veneta SS23, Ashley Graham in a draped red silk dress and platform sandals chose Dolce & Gabbana FW23 instead. Paris Fashion Week debuts also found a place on the red carpet: Sarah Paulson in Nina Ricci Couture FW23 and perhaps the most successful outfit of the evening, Hunter Schafer in Ann Demeulemeester, one of Ludovic de Saint Sernin's first creations for the historic house, with a white silk skirt and a simple goose feather top, a tribute to the Belgian designer's archive (SS92).