The dark side of minimalism Have we entered the nun-core era?

Clean cuts, sleek and austere lines, a color palette that indulges grey as the ultimate creative leap: in a flurry of Y2K and bare skin, an ever-growing niche of trendsetters have rediscovered the dark appeal of monkish minimalism. On the Academy Museum Awards red carpet, Julia Roberts appeared on the runway with a radiant smile, in stark contrast to her Thom Brown look, which consisted of a low-cut shirt and black train. Diana Silvers opted for a straight silhouette with a white band at the waist to break the monotony of her monochrome Prada dress, while Tilda Swinton opted for black velvet by Schiaparelli. At the same time, The Cut recently chose Cate Blanchett as Lydia Tár as an example of the style to follow to convey power and success through a "frigid bitch" winter wardrobe. This trend is joined by the growing following of luxurious minimalism, embodied by brands such as The Row and LeMaire, in a range of overpriced, impeccably crafted garments. We may have officially entered the nun-core season.

Diana Silvers at the Academy Museum Awards
Julia Roberts at the Academy Museum Awards
Thom Browne SS22
The Row SS23
LeMarie FW16
Yohij Yamamoto FW19
Jil Sander SS18
Jil Sander SS18
Jil Sander SS18
Cristòbal Balenciaga
Prada SS22
JW Anderson FW17
Cristòbal Balenciaga
Yohij Yamamoto FW19
Yohij Yamamoto FW19
JW Anderson FW16
JW Anderson FW16
JW Anderson FW16
The Row SS23
Prada SS22
Narciso Rodriguez FW16
Narciso Rodriguez FW16
LeMaire FW16
LeMaire FW16

Post-pandemic fashion had rediscovered the beauty of excess, sexiness, eye-catching textures, and skimpy designs, but a reaction is in turn followed by a reaction. After a Fashion Week season where sensationalism ruled and fashion gimmicks like Coperni's spray-on dress displaced gowns, a pink designer opted for a quiet fashion where the construction of the dresses mattered more than color and hype. Writing modest fashion on TikTok has 1.8 billion views with the accompanying hashtag, while on Instagram there are 4.5 million posts. YouTube also has many videos with well over a million views, thanks to modest content creators like Leena Al Ghouti, Maha Gondal, Sahara Yar, Nawal Sari, Leena Snoubar, and Saeedah Haque. A need for simplicity translates into a real need for women to break out of the "nun/whore" dichotomy, sublimating simplicity in clothing without renouncing the avant-garde.