
When Y2K goes brutal Emerging brands that have ridden the '0s aesthetic
From Nicola Brognano's butterfly tops for Blumarine to Miuccia Prada's DIY mini skirts for Miu Miu, the y2k revival of SS21 seemed like a welcome but doomed trend. Crotch skirts and low waists seemed too vivid a nightmare to re-enter our everyday lives in such a brazen way, yet one year on, we can say that the 2000s are more alive than ever. Maybe it was the pandemic prohibition that made us crave everything that oozes sex and debauchery or maybe the cloying minimalism of the last few years, the fact is that the y2k style is not only the favourite of the moment for it girls and celebrities, but it has reached the next stage, it has become brutal. A plethora of emerging brands have invaded the scene riding the y2k wave, but in a modern, if not futuristic key. Subversive basics, DIY, avant apocalypse and a massive dose of surrealism, as well as, of course, the iconic models of the millennium bag years, are the key ingredients of the maximalist aesthetic of these brands that we like to call, to quote an expression of Olivia Palermo, "brutal" y2k.
DI DU
Designer @lizakeane_ explored the idea of the suit as armour through an almost sculptural approach, where volumes trace the body and reveal it despite the fabric. From the Freudian Slip to the Negative minidress - worn by FKA at the NME Awards - the garments act as a 'second skin' that frees the wearer of inhibitions through a primal erotic sensibility, while maintaining a sense of elusiveness and privacy. Nude-effect prints and sculptural dresses, but also trousers tracing the legs of a centaur and vinyl glue tops, a fantasy universe with goth tints.