The haute normcore of Dior Homme's FW22 show The brand just presented its new collaboration with Birkenstock

Today the Dior Homme FW22 show was staged in Paris with a collection that stood out for a remarkable sobering up compared to the past – driven by the transformation of the staples of the brand's couture archive into menswear items. One should speak more of a classic dèfilè than a show, in the sense that far from focusing on pyrotechnic gimmicks, eccentric sets and bombastic artistic collaborations, there was only one catwalk that faithfully replicated, albeit on a smaller scale, the Pont Alexandre III in Paris. Sobriety was not only in the set-up of the show but in the collection itself, dominated by grays, blacks and blues: a palette that was inspired by that of the Parisian landscape seen from that point on a winter morning. The mood wants to recall the origins of Dior, the classicism of its superb couture designs, which meets the rigor of English tailoring synthesizing itself in the silhouette of a Bar Jacket for men. A collection in which, however, whose rigor whose sartorial support is tempered by the relaxed fit and, above all, by the sporty and utilitarian flair of the looks and above all by the  by the new DIOR by BIRKENSTOCK clog, which practically all the models of the show wore.

With this collection we are accentuating the idea that there is a side of the fashion world that is increasingly interested in the creation of elegant and wearable items, without succumbing under the weight of its own concepts – that in this case reinterpret the idea of genderless fashion by mixing masculine and feminine accents, adapting archival designs such as the bracelet by Victoire de Castellane with the hyper-modern aesthetics of Yoon Ahn that makes it become a men's jewel. A luxury item can be aspirational for the values it expresses but also (and more simply) because it looks like a garment that we would like to wear, nor does eccentricity at any cost always pay: «I wanted to look at the archive, at the purity of the beginnings of the House, at its original impulse. We looked at the initial collections and focused on the architecture, taking these elements and transforming them almost instinctively in a masculine way for today», explained Kim Jones.

Among other things, to analyze the looks of the show, eccentric details are not lacking such as leopard capes, jerseys full of trinkets, jackets decorated with artificial flowers and a series of blazers and coats with long fabric traces that are knotted on the front bringing the drapery on the front of the jacket.  The general impression, however, remains that of witnessing the evolution of an aesthetic whose name still escapes us: close to normcore by choice of garments and colors, but still mindful of the lesson on graphics, fits and constructions that streetwear and gorpcore have left her.