Vivienne Westwood's most iconic collections From the "Pirates" of the first fashion show to the ladies in tartan of "Anglomania"
Vivienne Westwood is one of the most iconic figures in fashion history. She passed away at the age of 81, having achieved a level of global popularity thanks primarily to her creations, which were able to speak the language of couture but also of social protest, inextricably merging the link between fashion and politics. His garments embodied the rebellious spirit of an era, were a symbol of identity representation, a manifesto of belonging, and a clear display of political and social opposition. In addition to liberating the younger generation from the rusty machinery of the Ancient Bourgeois Regime, Vivienne fought tirelessly for the climate crisis. The Lady of England has always condemned of the effects of climate change and overconsumption, of course pointing the finger at the fashion system for its faults in glorifying consumerism and its capitalist tendencies. With the 2021 Climate Revolution collection, she wanted to mobilize international attention on the issue of ecology, which is why she also wrote a Manifesto for the younger generation that relies on culture as the primary impetus to save the planet, which she signed, "I want you to help me save the world, but I can't do it alone," letting her combative energy shine through. The impact of her work and advocacy that will continue to work for her ideals. Her legacy will continue to expand thanks to her community and her partner Andreas Kronthaler, at the creative helm of the brand now since 2016. Fashion has lost one of its favorite rebels, let's remember her by retracing her most significant collections.
It was 1971 when, opening Let it Rock, a boutique at 430 Kings Road together with her partner and Sex Pistols' manager Malcolm McLaren, she punched the fashion elite in the face with her punk creations: T-shirts with the Queen's face printed full of safety pins; latex pants, bondage details and the super classic English tartan. Season after season, the store changed its name (Too Fast To Live Too Young to Die, then SEX, Seditionaires and, finally, Worlds End,...) following the evolution of Vivienne's creative flair and her collections, from the neo-romantic Pirates in high boots, Napoleon hats and shirts full of ruffles to the street-style Witches wearing knitted garments decorated by Keith Haring.
Once the partnership with McLaren ended, Westwood found the perfect mix between English and French tradition, history, art and rebellion. With the '90s came the partnership with Andreas Kronthaler and the most famous fashion shows, such as the one during which Naomi Campbell stumbled in her high heels and fell, or the one in which Kate Moss, bare-breasted and with her face covered in white makeup, ate ice cream. At that point, everyone wanted her mini-crunchy dresses and corsets, but fame has not managed to affect the spirit of the designer who dared to visit Buckingham Palace without underwear. Because even though she has become a Dame, Viv is still the same unconventional girl she has always been. In life and on the catwalk, in fact, there is always a battle to fight: from the one for inclusion pursued for example in the 2015 Unisex: Time to Act! collection or the one for the climate on which the creative has focused in recent years before appointing her partner Andreas Kronthaler
Vivienne Westwood FW 1981 - "Pirate"
The declared sources of inspiration for the collection are "shepherds and Sumerians", but, really, the result is a kind of reflection on unisex fashion and inclusion. On the runway, we see alternating tailored suits, androgynous looks, hula skirts, bangs, hooded capes and floral long dresses.
