Did fashion need another male creative director? It’s not a question of Jones’ competence but rather a questioning of LVMH’s promise to diversity
On Wednesday Roman fashion house FENDI officially announced a major shift in their management as Kim Jones will now take over as artistic director for womenswear collections, haute couture and fur. This essentially means Kim Jones who is also the artistic director of Dior Menswear will continue in both roles at Dior and Fendi, while Silvia Venturini Fendi who was the interim Artistic Director of Fendi will reprise her role as Director of Accessories and Menswear.
While this is incredible news for FENDI and their conglomerate LVMH, one can’t help but ask the question, with Louis Vuitton’s Nicholas Ghesquire; Balenciaga’s Demna Gvasalia; Gucci’s Alessandro Michele; Burberry’s Riccardo Tisci; Saint Laurent's Anthony Vaccarello; Celine’s Hedi Slimane among many others, did the fashion industry actually need another male executive in the male-dominated industry?
According to BOF, women make up more than 70% of the total workforce, but they hold less than 25% per cent of leadership positions in top fashion companies. So in stating this, it is to be clarified that it is not an attack on Kim Jones or his work but rather a question for LVMH, the decision-makers of both Dior & Fendi on the major choices which they make and a reminder of their pledge to diversity. It is no doubt that Kim Jones is a brilliant artist and will surely thrive in his post at both fashion houses, but what is questionable is the conglomerate’s decision to replace a thriving female designer with a white man who was already employed by them.
Even in the case where it was Silvia Venturini Fendi who decided to step down, it would have been much more exciting if they appointed ex-Celine Director Phoebe Philo or another woman, considering their promise to diversify their companies. Appointing a new creative director of a luxury company is like appointing a president or vice president and in today’s day and age, one would expect the possibilities of these positions to be open to all kinds of people, and while we are very excited for Kim Jones x Fendi, LVMH’s decision to keep within their own circle is also quite disappointing.
