The New Italian Masculinity - nss magazine Digital Cover N.02 The third chapter of our digital cover series is an exploration of what it means to be masculine on italian terms

Within the past few weeks , the local conversation surrounding the depths and definitions of masculinity has been quite abuzz. Following the performances of artist Achille Lauro at the Italian music festival Sanremo who shook the nation with his flamboyant Gucci ensembles and heartfelt quotes on his views of masculinity, many have since been called to question the integrants of mainstream masculinity within the Italian society. 

The topic has been brought to the frontlines and although many have been treating it as a new form of masculinity, yet the reality is that the very wide spectrum of masculinity is an age old concept which Italy seems to have only just been discovering.

On an international scale, the movement of masculinity’s broad spectrum is way ahead of the game with celebrities like Billy Porter, Harry Styles & Ezra Miller being champions for several different representations. In Italy however, the leading forces have been brands like Gucci, Zegna and more recently artists Achille Lauro as well as Ghali. This is why for the latest nss magazine’s Digital Cover we have chosen to explore the topic with an editorial shot by photographer Boris Ovini and an op-ed discussing the subject and it’s struggle to break into the bubble of mainstream Italian culture with Italian Clinical Psychologist and gender studies expert Guido Giovanardi. 

Credits

Photography Boris Ovini
Photographer's assistant Marco Pistolesi
Styling  Riccardo Maria Chiacchio
Casting Director Sabrina Mostrangelo
Hair Daniella Magginetti @closeupmilano 
Makeup Vanessa Geraci 
Creative Direction nss magazine
Creative Producer Jordan Anderson
Production Coordinator Ali Kiblawi
Production nss factory

Original traces of fluid masculinity stretch as far back as the 1970’s and ‘80s which was a prime time for the exploration of different manifestations and interpretations of art. It was when figures like Boy George,  Prince and David Bowie created a movement out of expressing themselves and their music through forms of androgynous fashion. The visual experience of their performances was just as interesting and gratifying as the music itself.

Locally, around this period, Italy also saw its first androgynous pop star Renato Zero,  who was a part of the glam rock movement and who often wore colourful makeup and flamboyant clothing. They all feminised themselves in different ways, which in turn made it cool to adore women. For men, they also made us aware of our own male body.

Thankfully however, Italian fashion brands don’t follow the pace of things on a local basis but follow international standards in order to remain relevant, which is why brands like Gucci, Zegna and more recently Fendi have been the local leading forces behind a more open minded approach of masculinity and gender in general,  similar to one we once praised in the 70’s. For Gucci’s last menswear show was aimed at destroying the concept of toxic masculinity , designer Alessandro Michele created a collection that combats western society’s ideal of macho virility. 

 

“Toxic masculinity, in fact, nourishes abuse, violence and sexism. … it produces oppressors and victims at the same time.It seems necessary to suggest a desertion, away from patriarchal plans and uniforms. It’s time to celebrate a man who is free to practice self-determination, without social constraints, without authoritarian sanctions, without suffocating stereotypes, ” read their FW20 press release. 

Zegna on the other hand, having long made clothes for the modern man, recently partnered with one of Italy’s most prominent humanitarian organizations CESVI to promote positive behavioural changes, which began with a campaign questioning What Makes a Man. Rather than explaining what masculinity is to them, it’s aim is more to facilitate discussion in exploring different manifestations and interpretations of masculinity. But does fashion really have such a power to usher a nation into a new way of thinking ? 

“I believe fashion brands can surely contribute in influencing these types of changes. For example ,the entire experience of Achille Lauro at the Sanremo festival, under a great level of homophobia and also sexism with the recent comments of Amadeus . He was able to open a conversation on what it means to be masculine, regardless of whether the feedback was good or bad, the point was the conversation was opened, and his dressing played a symbolic role in opening that door,” explained Dr Giovanardi.  

These gestures along with Generation Z being one of the most open in their views of gender norms, are the main factors of what will speed up the pace of things locally. 

"I’m quite hopeful for things changing with this generation. In school , homophobic behaviour is stigmatized and shunned for the most part. One of the main psychological factors of protection against bullying is the possibility to have allies, to have people and friends who support and protect you, and I believe that this community of support has been growing dramatically , thanks to new scholastic material, cultural aspects and tv series that propose positive images. This generation of teenagers are also very open, not only to sexuality, but they’re also experimenting with gender fluidity and neutrality ,they’re throwing away all the labels and opening a powerful space where healthy experimentation is taking place from a point of view of gender, ” concluded Dr Giovanardi. 

Which means all things considered, locally, although things are moving slowly, they are nonetheless moving towards the better and even though Gen Z in the US might be further ahead in the acceptance and normalization of the blurring of gender roles than Gen Z in Italy, the important thing is that they are both just as open-minded. The mere fact that we are having this conversation in itself is a sign that the floor has officially been opened for positive change.